A Stroll in the Park!

Waipu - Auckland

16 November 2010 to 26 November 2010

One thing is for sure, Shalane and I are certainly not rushing this trek.  As we walk further and come across more beautiful views and friendly people, why not stop, rest, enjoy and soak up the experience.  Although I am enjoying this experience more than I can explain and more than I ever imagined, I can safely say that trekking Te Araroa is not something that I will repeat and therefore will ensure I savour every moment.



A lonely boat on the Estuary



It's funny what makes a good day for me at the moment.  It's not the usual ingredients you would expect, like the weather being nice and sunny, or the terrain being flat and and easy to walk.  It's random events or the small things that just put a smile on my face.  Oh and food, don't forget the food.  The day we left Waipu was always going to be a good day.  We had a wonderful stay at Waipu Wonderers, a hostel that felt more like a home.  We only had half a day off but after being looked after so well by Elaine from the backpackers and enjoying some treats of fresh fruit from their fruit trees we felt like we'd had the whole day off.  After an amazing lasagne the night before, I woke up to a breakfast of fresh fruit (a rarity on our dried fruit and nut diet) and muesli and yoghurt, with freshly squeezed orange juice.  A breakfast Laura Bailey will confirm we never tired of on our travels.  So feeling full and happy and after a lovely chat with Steve from the hostel in the morning we set off for a whole day of gloomy road walking; the pack feeling full and heavy with newly stocked food and water.  We were walking along in the morning sun, chatting away when we spotted a Te Araroa sign pointing us off the road and onto an Estuary walk.  We were sooo pleased to break up the road walking and we skipped off and along the estuary and with the tide being out we were able to walk around mangroves and up the bank trying to avoid the soggy bits.  We had been walking for a while and looking out for a marker to direct us off the Estuary and back on the road.  The estuary ahead was getting wetter and harder to walk and we decided to take a boat ramp up the bank to see where it would lead.  We climbed up and over, only to find ourselves in somebody's back garden, so we continued down their drive which lead to the house.  The owner was outside working on something and didn't even look up when we approached.  I began to guiltily explain why we had suddenly appeared from the bush and up his garden and he seemed completely unfazed by the whole thing.  We edge away smiling and down the rest of the drive to the main road, feeling very confused and wondering where we would end up.  When we walked out onto the road, we found that there was a junction and leading straight ahead was the road that we needed.  I grinned and said to Shalane "today's a good day isn't it?"

After strolling along a forestry road and chatting to a local along the way (a guy by the name of Gordan Brown, poor fella) we finally walked up and into a field with some odd looking lamas.  They honestly looked like the surfer dudes of the animal kingdom, with long shaggy looking fringes and a look on their faces that just said "DUDES!"  After a photo session, we walked on by, along the trail until we neared the end of our day.  We were thinking about finding a camp spot for the night when we got to a sign on the trail that read "trail temporarily closed".  The sign was rather annoyingly placed about an hours walk from the beginning of the track, so we were stuck in the middle!  With no indication of how temporary this closure was, we convinced ourselves that we should sit and wait for the farmer to come along and reopen it. 



Taking a snooze while we wait for the trail to open



The following morning was stunning!  With the clouds laying low it looked like a blanket of snow on the hills and farmland around us.  We walked up and along the cliffs as the sun was rising and the ocean was glistening in the light. We had decided only to walk a short distance as we needed to catch up on some internet time and do a bit of shopping, so we reached Mangawhai Heads and spent a few hours there.  Mangawhai was beautiful, if not a little developed, with hundreds of stunning houses by the sea and a small village style high street.  The actual Mangawhai "village", another high street was also sweet and was situated a little bit inland.  When we finished on the internet and I'd brought myself some natural sleeping tablets, we walked to Mangawhai Forest and set up camp for the night.  We felt like we'd had a really lame, short walking day but when we added up the Kilometres it turned out to be 22km.  When we began this trek, the thought of trekking anything over about 15 with that backpack on felt like a huge mission, and now, to pump out 22kms and feel lame was a good feeling.  I went to sleep with a little help from my new purchase and had the best night sleep in ages.

We began the next day with 19 kms of beach walking followed by about 5 of road walking. By the time we reached Pakiri we both admitted to our bodies feeling a bit tied a put it down to trekking the previous day in peak heat.  We set up camp early and re-hydrated feeling a bit lame again, but realising again that 24 kms really isn't that bad.  We were on top of a huge hill and our view was worth a  $million.  It felt good to have the freedom to just stop when we wanted and not feel like we have to trek to the max every day.  We sat and chatted about anything and everything and one topic that we'd been discussing lots along the way is the amount of litter we notice, due to us being on foot.  We have said that we wish we could pick it all up but with our packs and there not always being a bin, sometimes for days, it's not that easy.  We therefore have decided to pick up at least one item of litter every day for the rest of the trek but hopefully more.  Between us that will mean 240 items of litter at very least by the time we finish the trek.  It would be so cool if every future Te Araroa tramper did the same.  We'd have the cleanest trek in the world. 

We woke the next day to clouds and rain and it felt great.  A really lovely change.  The cool air and low clouds gave the countryside a majestic feel with the only drawback being that we couldn't see where we were going.  We did some serious climbing that day and it felt good to do some work after a couple of easier days.  Working the legs hard and breaking a sweat in the fresh air feels amazing.  When we reached Matakana, we both fell in love.  It's a gorgeous town with a great buzz to it and a brilliant cafe culture.  It was even raining when we arrived and I STILL thought it was great.  We stopped for lunch in one of the cafes and for the first time in a while we felt like normal people.  We ate and people watched and laughed and chatted and it was only when it came to putting the packs back on that we were suddenly smelly trampers again.   We walked further than we planned today as it was raining hard and if we stopped we would have just ended up hiding in the tent.  The good news is that it made the next day a nice short one.

We were due to be at Sheepworld the next day and it wasn't far away.  Granted, there were a few mountains between us and the campsite and it proved to be very much a mental game this morning.  When you know you are close to somewhere, whether it be the end of the day or a destination you have set as a goal, your mind closes off, whatever time of the day it is.  We were taking our time, taking long 20 minute (maybe longer) breaks each time as we climbed up and up.  Even when we were meant to be descending to the road there would be more climbing and it was so frustrating when you just wanted to be there.  We eventually came out near the Dome Cafe on State Highway 1 and instead of continuing on the trail, we hitched a ride down to Sheepworld. 



Feeding a lamb at Sheepworld



Sheepworld is a fantastic place to visit, straight off the SH1 and with bright pink sheep grazing in the field, you can't miss it.  We stayed on the campsite which I would fully recommend for it's services and location. It's in a fantastic location with access to brilliant day walks, it's not far from the beach and is very central for accessing Mangawhai Heads, Matakana, Wakworth, Puhoi and more gorgeous towns in the area.  The campsite is next to a huge river and had a new BBQ area right next to it which would be so cool in the summer or if you were in a group.  It would be a great place to base yourself for seeing, what Shalane and I would say is our favourite area so far.  If you have kids then there is the Sheepworld farm next door to the campsite.  We visited the farm and watched the sheep dog demonstration and although I grew up on a sheep farm, still got as much pleasure feeding the baby lambs as the 6 year olds next to me and Shalane even gave sheep shearing a go.

Our rest day there was perfect and with another treat of fresh fruit and muesli for breakfast, we left the next day with a skip in our step, with a mission to get to Puhoi.  The trail was mostly logging and forest roads which are nice and wide and not to tricky underfoot, although still nice and steep.  I climbed a steep hill and couldn't help but shout "whoo hoo that feels good" at the sweat and adrenaline.  We were a couple of hours from Puhoi strolling along when we noticed we hadn't seen an orange marker for a while.  By this time we were on a small road that was turning into a dirt track so as we walked, we looked around us trying to find our path.  We crossed through a gate and I saw a wooden post laying on the floor, with an orange marker on it, so, presuming it had just been taking down, we continued on our way.  Roughly 3/4 of an hour later, we hadn't seen one single sign to tell us we were going the right way, so with the sun blazing and not many more hours of energy left in us, we decided to set up camp where we were and back track the next day.  Feeling a little confused at the disappearing signs, we enjoyed the sun that afternoon and tried to fill in our white bits as we have both adopted a rather attractive looking farmers tan.  Everybody comments on our tan but they don't seem to realise that it stops at our shorts and sock line.  Mmmmm, nice! 

 

Puhoi Pub and Hotel





The next day, on our way back, we past the orange marker that had been laid on the floor and planned to walk back to the road, which was where we'd seen the last definite Te Araroa sign.  However, before we reached the road, Shalane spotted an orange arrow up a tall hill in a field, only visible when walking the direction we had just come.  We walked up to it and saw another one in front of us.  We were really pleased to have found the trail but frustrated as our detour could have easily been avoided had the post not been removed.  We strolled across farmers fields and along the road into Puhoi, promising ourselves another treat as we felt a little sorry for ourselves for getting lost.  I had been really looking forward to spending some time in Puhoi as it had been described to us by a few people as a place well worth a visit. On walking into Puhoi, we both instantly saw it's charm.  A very pretty village with an infamous pub and a great general store seemed to have it all.  We called Judith Williams, a local reporter and historian and a friend of Inga's, from Ora Ora Resort.  She came to meet us outside the general store which also did tea and coffee (with which we HAD to experience the local fresh doughnuts of course).  Judith's family were the original Bohemian settlers of Puhoi and she introduced us to a few more locals who were also lucky enough to claim the same family history.  She told us a little about the village itself and as we sat there, the buzz of the locals in such an idyllic place was unreal. 

 We wondered down to Puhoi Canoes, as for the next section of the trail, we had to canoe down the river to Wenderholm.  Fortunately for us, the weather was rainy and the tide was on it's way out so we had the perfect excuse to stay in Puhoi for the day, a decision we had already both secretly made in our heads.  We were told by Puhoi Canoes to return the next day at 9.30am and we spent the day mostly at the pub, although it's not as it seems.  The weather was a little grim so we sat outside, under cover and had some lunch, while chatting to the locals and reading my book and relaxing.  It was the first time I'd sat in a pub all day and didn't have the slightest desire to drink.  I sat and looked around at the very picturesque village and thought to myself,  "with a small town that makes its own cheese, wine, beer, coffee, mustard and has it's own tea rooms, pub, canoe company and a fantastic general store, why the hell would you want to live anywhere else?"  We were joined in the evening by a group of local lads our age and so had some good banter with them.  It was actually really nice to be able to have some fun and know that we had a slight lay-in in the morning although it didn't stop us yawning at 6am, our usual bed time.  The locals pointed us in the direction of a good campspot and at about 9pm we headed to bed. 



Puhoi Playgroup



Just as we walked across the park, a car pulled up  behind us and my initial thought was "oh no, we're going to be in trouble for camping here" but a the lady got out the car and began to tell us that she had overheard us in the pub and didn't like the thought of us camping out in the cold.  She told us that she had the keys to the local playgroup and that it had it's own kitchen and toilet and if we wanted to sleep on the bean bags on the floor we were welcome to.  We had actually already been offered a place to stay that night by the chef in the pub and one of the locals but had opted to stay in the park as it was close to where we needed to be in the morning, but this offer was perfect.  The playgroup was situated opposite the canoe place and we wouldn't be in anybody's way.  So we accepted her kind offer and had the most random night accommodation of our trip so far! 

When we arrived at Puhoi Canoe the next day we found out we'd made it to the local newsletter already lol.  The canoe trip to Wenderholm was brilliant.  We covered about 10kms in the end and with a gentle cruise, followed by more of an arm work out as we got near the sea, it was a great experience.  It's a beautiful river too although canoing along side the major highway for a section of it was a bit strange.  The owners met us at the other end to pick up our canoes and it was back on foot for the remainder of the day.  The rest of the walk was perfect, with a trail, some beach walking and rock scrambling, followed by an easy touristy coastal path into Orewa.  After a lazy day the previous day, it eased us back in gently.  I can see a pattern forming here, lots of lazy days followed by easy ones - we do work hard, I promise! 

As we walked along, the number of houses increased and we could even start to see the Sky Tower in Auckland city centre.  The bush life was slowly disappearing and with very few ninja camp spots, we booked into Pinewood Caravan park at Red Beach.  We were getting a bit excited about reaching Auckland as it represented a really big goal for us but there was definitely mixed feeling on my part, as coming out of the bush and small villages and suddenly into a place where there are just buildings and cars was more of a culture shock than I thought it would be.  The good news is that we were pretty much following the beautiful coast line all the way into Auckland. 

Negotiating the rocks before the falll

The next day we walked to Browns Bay which was a 33 km walk from Red Beach. The trail was a mix of coastal and residential and was actually really lovely.  Shalane and I have become good property critics and enjoyed taking in the new surroundings.  I also managed to entertain Shalane fully this morning when we were scrambing over some rocks on the beach I slipped and fell over.  I managed to fall onto all fours but my bag slipped up towards my head and squashed my head to the floor.  So if you can imagine me on my knees with my bum in the air, with my cheek squashed firmly into a puddle on the rock and the weight of my bag so heavy that my neck couldn't pick my head up.  Thank goodness Shalane was there to hold my bag up so I could rescue my laughing face from the puddle.  It was extremely amusing and with just a school boy grazed knee to show for it we giggled our way along the beach.  We walked down towards the Weiti River and on our map and notes it said that we can wade the river at low tide.  Dirk had also mentioned to us a guy who takes people across on his boat for free as he loves the idea of Te Araroa so much.  We hadn't really known what to expect so we were wondering down a bit clueless when Gunter, the German guy who has the boat, called out to us from his balcony. 

Holding on tight

He invited us into his house for a cup of tea and a chat and he was a really fun guy.  He took us across the river in a small dingy and I honestly thought we would sink it with our heavy bags and he laughed at how unsure I looked as we gripped tightly to the sides, especially as he insisted we kept our bags on.  We made it across safely and waved him off before disappearing into the bush and continuing our way along a well trodden bush path for an hour and out onto the road.  We walked into the increasingly built up town of Browns Bay and asked around for a campsite.  Nobody seemed sure if there was one so we called into the local Estate Agency, feeling sure that they would know the area well.  After they confirmed there wasn't one for another 15 Kms and after we explained that we were on foot and it being late afternoon didn't have time or energy to walk all that way, Shane, the estate agent came up with an idea.  

Such a good view there aren't even windows in the way



The best room in the house!



He offered for us to stay in the house that he was currently building.  He walked with us up the cliff (passing the Te Araroa sign which meant his house was actually on the official path) and he began to tell us that the builders were there and we'd have to stay out of there way until 5pm.  What we didn't realise was that his house was actually in the very early stages of being built so after climbing up a ladder with our packs on, into the wooden frame and scaffolding, we put our bags down in bedroom 3, the room with the most walls and set off to the public toilets for a wash.  It was possibly up there with the play centre for the most random nights accommodation and with Shane's only request being that we cook dinner outside the wooden framework (a fair ask I think) we ate and settled down for bed with another amazing sea view.  We had breakfast down on the beach in the morning while the sun came up behind the clouds.  It's a hard life!

The next day was just full of excitment.  We were so close to Auckland and having adapted slowly to being back into civilisation, we were now just looking forward to a shower, pizza and knowing we had come this far.  When we were in Auckland before we began this trek, my friend Andy (Riggers) who was living in the city had mentioned a brilliant pizza place near his flat and suggested that when we trek back through the city, we should stay with him and have a pizza night.  This idea has been our sole motivation for the whole Cape Reinga to Auckland section so goodness knows what we are going to do from now on to keep us going.  We walked along the coast on and off the beach and chatted to locals along the way.  One lady was so shocked at what we were doing that she told everyone she walked past for the rest of the day, to the extent that random people came up to us and said "we've heard about you".  We need somebody like her everywhere we go if we want to reach out target for the Soloman Islands.



We walked in the gorgeous sunshine and in one of the breaks I couldn't resist any longer.  I dumped my bag and ran into the sea, just a few kms from Devonport, where we were due to get the ferry.  It was amazing!  Just a few more Kms and we were in Devonport with a look of complete surprise on our faces.  I had a real mix of feelings.  Seeing the big city across the water was just incredible after the small villages and towns we'd passed and I don't think I could believe we'd got there.  It actually felt like we'd finished so we had to push that feeling out of our heads quick.  It also felt like we'd been out of civilisation a lot longer than we actually had and I'm not sure if it was the pure size and buzz of the city or the fact that we looked and smelt like cave women.  We changed and attepted to make ourselves look like normal people in the toilet at the ferry port as we were just about to visit Riggers at work.  It was so lovely to see him and we've been staying with him the last two days where I think it is safe to say, we've felt so looked after.  With the best shower since I can remember, with real shampoo and conditioner and a real bed with great food, I feel like it's been a mini celebration.

Riggers doing everything he can to hide the smell of our bags at his work

We are currently waiting for our next food drop to arrive and we'll be on our way but one thing is for sure.  This last section has been the best so far.  A fair number of challenges but enjoying  the country for all it has to offer, meeting more locals and learning about New Zealand, stopping in the places we love the most and generally enjoying every second.