Wellington Boots!

I think we have been traumatised by the rain.  We woke up one morning on Tarakino Beach Road to the sound of the rain on the tent and we both got ready in silence, with the look of dread on our faces.  All I could think was "how long will it last?"  I don't mind a day or 2 but in my head I needed to mentally prepare for what we were facing. 

Tarakino Beach

Luckily, after half an hour of hiding, wet and shivering in the camp toilets an hour into our morning we didn't see any more rain that day.  In fact, with the wind behind us and the sand on the beach easy to walk on, I couldn't help but feel the day was turning out ok.

The beach was gorgeous, with black/brown sand and a contrasting glow of peppermint green coloured vegetation, it was different to anything I'd seen.

We stayed that night in a lovely pine forest and after borrowing some water from a kind lady with too many incredibly smelly dogs, we settled down for the night in preparation for a few days of road walking.

A few interesting mail boxes on the way

The next day was the official day that we decided not to follow Te Araroa as religiously as we have been and maybe even look ahead to amend the route to suit us.  We hadn't seen many Te Araroa signs lately but just outside of Bulls (a really lovely town which is apparently so proud of their name that even the police station displayed pictures with bulls in uniform???)  we got onto a track and off the road and began to follow the Te Araroa signs.  As a result we were faced with a landslide and a 30 metre drop and our only choice was to climb over a barbed wire fence, under an electric fence, into a field of Bulls before walking out onto a road which smelt of dead animal (clearly not the responsibility of Te Araroa) and onto the road we had left over an hour before, to find ourselves about 2 kms further down it - sometimes, it's just not worth the detour!

We basically picked blackberries all the way to Palmerston North where we had decided to spend a rest day as we had a few things on our "To Do" lists.

One thing on my list was to take my holy boots into the Hunting and Fishing store to see if they could exchange them, as a 2.5 months life span just wasn't much good to me.  It was a very surreal experience in the end as we happened to actually pass the shop on the way into town, still laden with packs.  I walked up to the counter, bent down and untied my shoe laces, put my still warm and sweaty, stinky boots on the counter and with a bit of a discussion from a couple of staff members I was soon tying up a new pair of clean, perfect, untouched boots and walking out of the store without so much of a transaction or a display of a receipt.  I wish you could do that with everything that wears out or breaks.  Yey for Hunting and Fishing!

And as it happens, you can do that with everything that wears out or breaks because later, we walked into Macpac, one of our sponsors whose customer service has always been brilliant and on this day went off the scale.  Our sleeping mats were deflating every night and despite searching for the source about 10 times with no luck, we took them back to the store to see if they could do anything, along with some merino leggings of Shalane's.  Well, by the time we left Jody and Paul at the Palmerston North branch, they had gone over and above their call of duty and then pretty much climbed a mountain for us.  Jody, after hearing about what we were doing (as we had to explain why they were sponsoring us) called the local newspaper and arranged for an interview with the journalist to try and promote our trek and raise awareness for Soloman Islands, she had given us a handful of expensive lunch bars (yummy Em's power bars that are gorgeous but out of our budget), offered to help us with absolutely anything else we waned and invited us around for dinner.  They both offered us somewhere to stay although we'd already checked into the local campsite.  They really were fantastic.  After Shalane having  not so much luck in Bivouac with HER holy boots (although now completely sorted and a very pleasing result) we finished our shopping for the day before enjoying a lovely meal and evening with Jody and her husband John. 

Our Newspaper article

I could have easily rolled over and gone back to bed the next day and it reminded me of how I felt every single day back at home.  We called into the university campus to get me some cash out of the ATM and it sent my mind thinking about what I want to do when I get home.  My head was already exploding from the events of the previous day, what with newspaper interviews and overwhelming kindness of Jody and Paul.  Now I walked along wondering if I'm still employable after so many years on the run from society or whether I should go to Uni and make my future happen rather than drift along on the clouds of fate and luck like I've been lucky enough to do so far in life.  And so, needless to say, I had a very thoughtful day and if anybody would like to employ me so that I can carry on drifting then that would be lovely.

We had a plan and it failed!  However, with a bit of Kiwi magic and a big butch logging worker with the understanding of the fairy godmother "she'll be 'right"!  We packed up early in the morning and headed to Stuart Road which was essentially an access road to the Burtton track - our next trail.  There had been a note on the Te Araroa website and signs further back to say that the road was closed Monday to Friday but we figured we'd arrive before they all started work and sneak on past.  What we didn't realise was that 7.50am was just not going to cut the mustard and these keen logging workers were there and chopping at 7am.  We plonked ourselves on the side of the cold and wet logging road, next to the high vis signs and tape saying "DANGER" and " DO NOT ENTER" and "ROAD CLOSED" - ok ok we get the point! We looked in the distance at the HUGE diggers and machines and the big sliding logs and crazy wire constructions.  A guy drove up on a big logging truck and did not look like he should be messed with.  He sped up to the "DANGER" tape, jumped out, untied it, jumped in, drove forward, jumped out, put the tape back and sped off!  If he'd at least said hello I would have ran over to him and taken the opportunity to ask if we can come through but he was Mr Unapproachable!  Shalane and I decided to wait it out.  We weren't really sure what we were waiting for but the alternative was a back track followed by a massive road walk that didn't even take us to where we really needed to go, so sitting in the ditch and waiting for something seemed like a good plan at the time. 

So we waited.....

Within half an hour Mr Unapproachable sped back up to us with his laden lorry and jumped out to untie the danger tape.  I wasn't letting him get away this time!  I ran over to him and asked if there was any chance of us walking through the destruction mayhem on their lunch break.  Well, Mr Unapproachable actually turned out to be Mr I won't hesitate to help you girls and he got onto the radio straight away before striking a deal with me that we can walk through if I re-tie the tape up when he drives past.  It sure was a good deal on our part.  So off we tottered up to the big scary digger where the gentle giant of a logging working stopped the whole scene so that we could pass by and he even gave us a running commentary on what they were doing and how on the way.  Result!

The Burtton track was awesome, despite it feeling a little bit eerie.  The track was named after Jim Burtton who lived and farmed out in the bush.  In 1941 he fell 8 metres onto some rocks in the river when a suspension bridge he had built collapsed.  He managed to take himself to his neighbours along this route with a broken leg and other injuries and it took him 12 hours.  Unfortunately, Jim later died in hospital of his injuries.  Luckily, it only took us 5 hours to walk it and no broken bones to report.  We camped that night at Tokomari Dam.  We set up tent on one of our most random camp spots, on the only patch of grass in the area., surrounded by baron logging roads.  Shalane had promised to call Sally that evening, who had insisted we'd have mobile reception from the Dam.  Sally was the owner of the Mahakika Outdoor Pursuits Centre and had acted as a food drop location for us.  When we contacted her she was extremely enthusiastic about some members of the community, including 2 guys who had built the track, coming to meet us and trek with us.  On arrival to the dam we realised we didn't have signal, but when one of the logging workers stopped for a chat on his way home from work he informed us that if we walked up the incredibly steep hill behind us in the rain, after our 8 hours of walking that day, we'd get signal.  We couldn't wait!  He zoomed off and we began to prepare ourselves for the climb.  Luckily, the nice man had realised the error of his ways (tee hee) and turned around to give one of us a ride to the top.  Shalane jumped at the chance (she really didn't have much choice).





Russel and Arlan



Everything got sorted, but as we had a 6am start time due to more logging work, we only had 2 guest trekkers arrive the next morning.  However, it turned out perfectly.  Sally kindly took some of our gear so Shalane and I trekked with day packs and Russel and Arlan were more than happy to trek at a fast pace.  Russel confessed to usually running the trail so as we flew along almost at a jog everybody seemed to be enjoying themselves.  Even his son seemed to come round to the idea although he was actually there to pay off a debt of a recently purchased mobile phone (I presume it was obtained via the bank of mum and dad).  It was brilliant having 2 locals with us who knew the area and with Russel being an Orienteer, we were in safe hands. 

After the trail we headed back to the Outdoor Centre to be greeted with everything we could have wanted and more.  Before Shalane and I hit a town or a rest day we often dream of a flushing toilet or a sink to hand wash our stinking docks in.  Never did we imagine what was to follow....



Sally cooking up a storm

Sally had arranged for us to stay in the "top house" which basically meant we had our own 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom house to ourselves.  We didn't just get a flushing toilet, we got 1 each!  We had use of washing machine and a choice of books that would turn anybody into a book worm.  After the guided tour we were told to wonder down to the main house for lunch.  Sally cooked us a beautiful lunch, gave us a bag of snacks and fruit, later cooked us a BBQ along with wine, we had use of a hot tub, swimming hole, a car, more food, lunch, steak for dinner followed by another BBQ and more wine.  As you can imagine, we didn't want to leave!  The best gift of all is that they even went trekking for us.  Ok this bit is a joke.  However, Sally, her husband John and daughter Emma Kate had planned on a couple of days tramping with some friends and the section they had chosen was part of the Te Araroa trail.  Shalane and I had opted for an alternative coastal route as we wanted to ensure we made the ferry in time.  There was also bad weather on it's way which would have meant the mountain option becoming un-walkable.  So, off Sally and her family went up the mountains where they met Cookie and Nicky, a British couple who are also trekking Te Araroa (http://www.nickyandcookie.com/) who had decided to brave the mountain range,  while we relaxed in the hot tub with wine and good food.  It was tough, really tough, but somebody had to do it!

The next few days were great, mainly because we were getting closer and closer to Wellington.  We skirted between beach and road and beach and road.  The sun was shining and we stopped one evening and enjoyed a kite surfing competition on the beach.  As we approached the city on our last day.  The clouds were low and our bags had suddenly become really heavy - Our bodies knew we were there.  We arrived at lunchtime, darted to the public toilet to try and make ourselves smell less and look human, before treating ourselves to lunch in the nearest cafe/bar.  We had made it!  North Island.....tick!

David Oliver, a Kiwi who we had been chasing down the entire north island from day 1 kindly offered us a place to stay in Wellington.  He came to meet us and took us back to his house for showers and a feed and has been playing host and tour guide during our days in Wellington.  The three of us plan to ferry over to the South Island on 22 January for The Adventure of a Lifetime:  Part 2.

The north island has been so incredible!  Day 1 seems so fresh in my head and I remember my sudden realisation at the end of that day that the trek was 5 whole months long.  When locals have asked us what we've loved about the trek, the answer has to be the people.  We're living an amazing life, the simple life, out of a tent, surrounded by nature, million dollar views and so many experiences that I have lost count but the people have made this trip so far.  This trek allows you to really see New Zealand and really get chatting to the locals and they have proved to be so kind and generous and interesting and entertaining.  We've met farmers, hunters, local business owners, kids, town folk, village folk, sheep and cows galore, live possums, dead possums, and many more.  But....all this time, the whole 3 months, all people have said to us is "wait until you see the south island".  I have a new backpack thanks to Macpac doing me a fantastic deal, we have new t-shirts that aren't crusty and we both have new boots!   So here we come south island!

PLEASE NOTE THAT WE WILL NOT BE ONLINE OR CONTACTABLE AS MUCH IN THE SOUTH ISLAND DUE TO A MORE ISOLATED ROUTE.
THERE ALSO PHOTO AND VIDEO UPDATES ON THIS BLOG.